There are sometimes concerns from clients regarding issues in the past with pool, spa. landscaping & exterior design firms as far as the history of these companies and improper Work. We always install everything in your yard at an absolute pro grade level. On several occasions clients have opted to go with the cheapest fly by night bid and then after the install had us return to fix the Work. I urge you to have landscaping done right the first time whomever you select. Due to the fact that to remove incorrectly installed items then reinstall them properly takes more time and labor reflecting more cost to you. This is something We strive to avoid.
Our landscape design las vegas team will get it done right the first time! Every time.
Call today to set up a design consultation 702-839-5296
Professional grade Synthetic Turf installation procedure lst ground is cleared of all medium to large rock then it is lightly graded for decomposed granite to be laid down. The granite is smoothed out and the proper level is determined as Well as the proper pitch for drainage, A large machine is brought in to compact and harden the ground. This procedure is to prevent any future risk of turf sinking.
The Turf is then rolled out over the area and shape and size are created by cutting the edges, razor sharp cutting tools are needed to cut through the extremely thick turf products. At this point the edging and finish of the area is carefully created. We then hammer large stakes into the turf area to secure it to the ground permanently.
A large gas powered turbo brush is run over the grass area so it stands up and has a beautiful finished look. Final sweeping, clean up and turf installation is complete.
Professional grade plant & tree installation procedure lst and foremost all plants and trees are hand selected to ensure only the nicest available material is used. Plants are at times the 1st step of the job depending on the project. They are carefully placed in the yard to create the proper look, feel, and balance. Holes are dug by pick axe and shovel, jackhammer or heavy equipment depending on soil. At this time plant material is removed from bucket or box and placed in the hole. The dirt dug up from ground is mixed half and half with premium mulch and fertilizer is added. The mix is back-filled into the hole and a catch basin is formed. Stakes are added when needed on certain trees. Water is then back-filled and your landscaping installation is complete.Please see gallery for more pool and spa photos.
Call today to set up a design consultation 702-839-5296
7 Tips to Prevent Dog Urine Brown Spots
If you have a dog, then your lawn probably has at least a few—and probably more—brown spots. Urine burns. The purpose of this article is to help you understand why urine causes the grass to die and what you can do to reduce the effects of dog urine on your lawn.
The effects of dog urine on your lawn are similar that of a nitrogen-rich liquid fertilizer. A little fertilizer makes your yard healthy, but too much will kill your lawn. Preventing lawn burn focuses on reducing the amount of nitrogen that comes into contact with grass. Following the seven tips below will help you keep your lawn green and healthy:
- 1. Fertilize your lawn less or not at all in areas where your dog urinates – Fertilized lawns may already have as much nitrogen as they can handle. Even the small amount of nitrogen in dog urine may be all that is needed to burn the lawn.
- 2. Spray areas where your dog urinates with water – Pouring water on the area after your dog urinates will help to dilute the urine and lessen the effects of the nitrogen on your lawn.
- 3. Encourage your dog to drink more water – The more your dog drinks, the less nitrogen will be concentrated in the urine and the less damaging it will be to your lawn. It will also be healthier for your dog. Put a little non-sodium chicken broth in your dog’s water to encourage him to drink more. Readily available clean and fresh water will also help.
- 4. Replant affected areas with a more urine-resistant grass -Ryegrass and fescue are the most urine-resistant, while Kentucky Bluegrass, and Bermuda are most sensitive to urine.
- 5. Feed your dog a dietary supplement – Certain dietary supplements, such as Green-UM and Drs. Fosters and Smith “Lawn Guard,” bind with the nitrogen in the urine, making it less harmful to your lawn.
- 6. Train your dog to urinate in one area – Some products, such as the Simple Solution Pee Post, are impregnated with pheromones to encourage your dog to pee on or near them. Designating an area for your dog to go on will save the remainder of your yard.
Apply a lawn repair treatment – Some treatments, such as Dogonit Lawn Repair Treatment, contain organic enzymes with soil cleansers to flush the salts from the root zone.
By loosening compacted soils, allowing air, water, and nutrients to penetrate, stimulating deeper root growth. The build-up of salts from fertilizers, herbicides, and urine overwhelm lawn areas and cause dehydration (burn spots), which appear as localized, yellow or brown patches.
Q. Water is coming through my wall? Or…There is white residue on my wall, why?
A. Efflorescence and drainage.
A common problem Greencare encounters in Las Vegas and surrounding areas is water coming through walls and draining from one home to another. On several homes the lots are actually designed this way. Water is going to find the easiest route to get to the lowest elevation. When the builder first started to grade out the land for your development they had to build homes on flat surfaces and steer the water to the lowest point into the eventual storm drain if a heavy rain hit. Most of the water will end up draining into the ground before it gets to the storm drain. In some instances the ground will appear damp for weeks if not months and may never completely dry out if shaded. The goal in drainage planning is to steer the water away from the foundation of your home and sometimes that means from one lot elevation to another lot elevation that is lower.
The desert soil in Las Vegas does not drain well in most areas. This is why if you have a drip system in your yard and you are watering regularly there will be areas that potentially always remain damp. The rock may look spotty and damp even in areas that are far away from plants. This does not necessarily mean there is a leak. Decorative rock will also draw water into the rock itself from the ground and sometimes appear damp and spotty even long after the watering timer has stopped. If watering times are set every day or even a few times per week it may never completely dry out. The rock Greencare installed here was laid down over the natural drainage path of the yard and Greencare installed real grass so the rock will often look spotty long after watering. Grass is not native to the Nevada desert so you have to water abundantly and the ground doesn’t drain well so this is what happens. You have to take the good with the bad. Some rocks are more porous than others so some will absorb more water and look damp, it is normal.
The wall seen on the left has a bad case of efflorescence. The white minerals leaching from the mortar have seriously stained both the stone and the mortar.
The first thing to realize is that these mineral deposits are just an aesthetic problem. They do not compromise the structural integrity of any of the masonry in and about your new home. The white powder you see is efflorescence. The brick, stone, concrete block, mortar etc. contain water soluble salts that are the source of the white deposits. Soil behind retaining walls can also contain these same salts.
These trapped salts are set into motion when water enters masonry. The water dissolves the salts and carries them through the masonry towards the surface. Sunlight and wind draw the water to the surface but as the water evaporates, the salts are left behind.
The salts contained in the brick, mortar, stone, concrete block eventually exhaust themselves and the white mineral deposits simply go away. But salts within soil can persist for decades. Each time you try to wash the wall surfaces to remove the salts, you actually compound the problem. The water you use simply soaks into the masonry surfaces and dissolves the salts to create more problems days later. The surfaces typically look fantastic when wet, but the white powder appears again when the surfaces dry.
To stop the efflorescence you must stop all water from entering the masonry so if plants need water to survive you are in a catch 22. Either no plants or deal with the white residue. Efflorescence is very common on new brick and stonework.
When a retaining wall is built then is sealed and is backfilled with dirt even though it was treated with a waterproofing compound you will see water on the other side. There are a few reasons for this: If the house on the other side is at a lower grade the water will come through below the ground level of the higher elevation home, which we can’t stop because we can’t seal below the ground. Water flows downward and once it is below ground level the wall on the lower side will draw the water in and therefore you get the water coming through and the residue on the lower side. Even if the homes are at the same level, at times the water will still come through because CMU blocks will actually draw the water upwards due to the fact they are so porous.
The only way to stop this would have been to seal the entire wall below the ground level when constructed. Sealing walls for future possible water is not common practice with builders. The builder should have done this when the wall was being constructed. It would have taken some time but would have helped stop the water and the efflorescence.
But that’s not normally the case so here we are. Efflorescence happens. It is part of building new things. It eventually goes away after deposits are exhausted, but this process can take years. When possible, it is best to just let the problem diminish on its own.
Stopping water from entering masonry is the best way to make efflorescence stop. But it is not as easy as one might think. Water can enter masonry and travel up, down and sideways! You can actually get efflorescence on masonry walls caused by moisture in the soil that wicks up a wall.
Natural grading (with the dirt, natural rock and gravel material only) of your property when done properly is the best way to divert water away from your home and walls then out toward the street.
This is done by pitch of grade only and water being diverted properly. This is why builders leave backyards that are sloped away from walls and your home creating a V like area in the center (seen above) of your yard that leads out toward the front on most homes.
When you are installing a pool and landscaping drainage pipes are to be used only when the path of the water is blocked by an obstruction (pavers, concrete, synthetic turf etc…). If obstructed the water needs to be diverted through a drainage pipe or deck drain (on pools) and directed passed the obstruction only leading back to the V depression in the dirt.
When decorative rock is installed you should not flatten out your landscape. Install the decorative rock on top of the grading left by builder and leave the grading pitched away from your home, walls and leading to the front with the V shape depression. The water will build up in this V shaped depression and slowly flow through the decorative rock out to the front.
When there is excessive rain there will be some build up in the areas where the water is accumulating in the V shape depression and these areas will become soft so if you walk on them you may sink in. This is normal so don’t walk in these areas until they dry out a bit. The majority of the time most of the water will drain into the ground returning to the water table which is the goal. During an intense downpour it will flow in this V depression out through the decorative rock and through a drainage brick (brick with gaps for water) left by builder in the center of your wall or can simply drain through a gate entry.